A surprise from our camp hosts, a sunrise ride, and reflections on an unforgettable trip.

If you missed earlier posts on Jordan, click here for Part 1, and here for Part 2.   

Back at Camp

After our exciting day in Petra, we clean up and head to the dining tent for dinner.  Still satisfied from our lunch in Wadi Musa, we eat lightly and wander into the adjacent lounge.  Even more opulent than our tent and amazingly built out of the side of a cliff, the lounge has gilded walls, more ornate furniture, and super friendly Bedouin staff.  We order tea and settle in to enjoy the ambiance and the music.  There are a few other guests enjoying tea and shisha, a middle eastern tobacco product.  It’s a truly fitting end to a very full day in Jordan – or so we think.

Suddenly, the dim lights are lowered even further, and the familiar theme song from The Titanic – “My Heart Will Go On” – is blasting through the speakers.  As it turns out, Rami’s brother works at the camp.  When he hears we’re newlyweds, he arranges a surprise:  cake, candles, and the song chosen just for us.  We laugh, dance (awkwardly) and encourage the other guests to join us.  Unfortunately, no takers on the dance floor – but at  least they help us eat the cake!

What a lovely surprise and the perfect end to our day.  We walk back to our tent, stopping to gaze at the brilliant stars.  It’s bed for us, though… we have our last Wadi Rum adventure in just a few short hours…

Sunrise Camel Ride

It’s pitch dark—and freezing—when we rise our last morning.  Thankful for our Bedouin coats, we make our way to the camp entrance where we meet a group of fellow travelers for the sunrise camel ride.  Among the group are a couple from Italy and a mother and adult son from the US.  As we introduce ourselves, we learn that the mother and son are Palestinian  Americans, fluent in Arabic.  We are super fortunate that they are in our group – their ability to communicate with the shepherd means we get a lot more out of our trip!

Before long, six camels and the shepherd, Asif, appear out of the dark desert.  Asif commands the camels to lower to the ground, and they wait patiently for us to climb aboard.  There are no waivers to sign, no “safety discussion,”  we just climb on, and we’re off!  Sort of refreshing, I have to say!

We ride through the baren desert that we had traversed several times while commuting to and from the camp.  This time, however, it’s a completely peaceful journey.  No 4x4s careening across the sand.  We see nothing other than stars, desert and the sun peeking out from behind the mountains.  My camel is sweet—super mellow and easy to handle.  A few of the others get a little grumpy, but Asif keeps them in line, no problem.

After riding for about an hour, we stop for a break.  Asif makes a fire to warm our hands.  It’s truly breathtaking out in the quiet desert.  Our Palestinian American companions translate for us as Asif shares some of his story.  He is one of 19 children—same father, multiple mothers.  They live together in a tent outside the village.

Asif has been awake since 3am to feed the camels and begin his two-hour trek across the desert to our camp.  He’s happy for the income, so willing to make the trip whenever asked.  After returning us to the camp, he’ll try to find other travelers interested in a ride.

Our ride is about 2 ½ hours – a beautiful and memorable morning.  By the time we return to camp, the sun is out and its getting warmer.  We have just enough time to clean up, grab a quick breakfast and jump in a truck for our last ride across the desert.

Last Look & A Dip in the Sea

Rami meets us in the village and drives us to Aqaba.  Neil is a big swimmer and wants to take a dip in the Gulf of Aqaba, so Rami drops us at the beach just adjacent to the city.  It’s still morning and not crowded.  Neil takes a quick swim and we’re off to the border.

Crossing back into Israel is essentially the reverse – we pay the exit fee, go through security, walk a few hundred yards and we’re in Israel!  Our pre-arranged driver takes us to the airport in Eilat for our quick flight back to Tel Aviv.

Final Thoughts & Tips

We loved our time in Jordan!  The people are warm, the landscape surreal, and the experiences unforgettable.  The day spent horseback riding and hiking in Petra was not to miss.  Neither was the sunrise camel ride.  Memories Aicha is a great place to stay, with unique accommodations, hospitable staff and a wide variety of decent food.

If you’re considering a trip, here are a few tips:

• Weather – we traveled in November, and the climate was just perfect. Cool enough during the day that we could be outside without any worry.  Crowds were manageable.  Evenings were cold, but our Bedouin coats kept us toasty.  It can be very hot in the summer (June through August).  The best months to visit are Spring (March and April), and Fall (September through November).
• Currency – Having Jordanian Dinar on hand helps. Many  of the smaller shops and restaurants will take only cash.  You will also need cash for tips for drivers, guides and camp staff.  We changed USD in Wadi Musa without issue.
• Excursions – If you are interested in horseback riding in Wadi Rum, I would advise making arrangements in advance through a guide, if possible.  While there are many guides with their horses and camels at the entrance to Petra, it can be a little overwhelming.  I believe our experience was more robust than we would have received from one of the guides at the entrance, though I can’t say for certain.
• Jordanian Hospitality – people are extremely friendly and service oriented, eager to say hello and practice their English. We felt very safe the entire time.
• Impact of Tourism – the increased tourism in Petra and Wadi Rum has its pluses and minuses. Where there was once only rock, desert and Bedouin camps, there are now camps catering to tourists from all over the world.  Jobs as tour operators, guides, merchants and camp staff have created new means of income for Bedouin.  However, there are those who fear the traditions of this nomadic group will fade over time.  I think of Asif, the camel shepherd, traversing the desert for 2 hours so that tourists can experience his camels and the beautiful sunrise.  I am happy to contribute to his income which is shared with his large family.
• Consider Hiring a Guide/ Driver – If you aren’t traveling with a group, I highly recommend arranging for a guide who also serves as your private driver.

Rami not only translated for us and provided safe and reliable transportation, his knowledge of the area, connections to other service providers and recommendations for how to spend our time were invaluable.  We found his fees very reasonable.

Jordan surprised us in every way—stunning landscapes, incredible hospitality, and experiences we’ll talk about for the rest of our lives.  If you’re looking for a destination that’s off the beaten path and beyond memorable, this is it.

Have questions about planning a trip to Jordan?  Want Rami’s WhatsApp info?  Drop me a comment or send an email—I’d love to share more!  And if you’ve been to Jordan, tell me:  what was your favorite memory?

Thanks for reading!