If the backdrop of Wadi Rum and Petra looks cinematic, it’s because it is. Here’s how our 3-day post-wedding escape to Jordan turned into one of the most surreal and spectacular trips we’ve ever taken.
Why Jordan? Why Not!
My husband Neil and I were invited to join a group from our church on a fabulous, 5-star trip to Israel in November of 2022. This trip landed just three weeks after our wedding, so we decided to tack on a detour for just the two of us. As luck would have it, I came across an article on Jordan, one of the destinations Neil had suggested, which highlighted the magical Memories Aicha Luxury Camp. One look at the photos of tents and domed suites and I knew we had to add this stop to our itinerary. Though it took some planning, our 3-day adventure in Jordan was well worth it!
Since there’s so much to share, I’ve broken this post into 3 parts:
Part 1 covers our arrival and the first part of our stay at Memories Aicha,
Part 2 highlights our day in Petra,
Part 3 captures our final (beautiful) morning in Wadi Rum, plus tips and reflections.
Wadi Rum and Petra – on the Big Screen
If you haven’t yet been to Jordan, you might still recognize the landscape. Wadi Rum has served as the backdrop for Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker and more recently, Dune and Dune: Part Two. The iconic sites of Petra appeared in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade and Aladdin, among others.
Wadi Rum: A Desert Like No Other
Wadi Rum, or “The Valley of the Moon,” lies in southern Jordan near the border with Saudi Arabia. With stunning blood-orange sand dunes and enormous sandstone and granite mountains, it’s also home to archaeological sites, rock carvings and inscriptions dating back centuries. There are no buildings or roads—just 280 square miles of protected desert. In 2011, Wadi Rum was named a UNESCO World Heritage site of cultural and natural significance.
The region is inhabited by Bedouins, derived from the Arabic word bedwa, meaning “desert dweller,” nomadic people who roam the desert regions of the Middle East. The Bedouins in Wadi Rum today own, operate and staff the desert camps, or work as drivers and guides.
Petra: The Rose-Red City of Legends
In 1812, Petra was “re-discovered” by a Swiss explorer who had heard rumors of a lost city. He found the capital of the Nabataean Empire full of temples, elaborate tombs and homes carved into rose-colored cliffs. Its most famous feature is the Treasury, an intricate structure chiseled out of a sandstone rock face.
Petra became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985 and was named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.
Getting There
We land in Tel Aviv and spend one night at a small hotel near the airport. Since we’re traveling for three weeks and want to bring the minimum to Jordan, we stash our larger suitcases at the hotel and head to Jordan with only our carry-ons.
A short flight takes us from Tel Aviv to the southern Israel port city of Eilat. Our prearranged driver whisks us to the nearby Wadi Arava border crossing. Referred to as the Yitzhak Rabin Terminal on the Israel side, it’s one of three options for crossing between Israel and Jordan, and the one most convenient for those visiting Wadi Rum and Petra.
Moving through the border crossing is quick and easy. We pay a fee of approximately $30 USD each to exit Israel, head through passport control and we’re off to Jordan. Crossing on foot feels surreal—we literally walk into another county!
On the Jordanian side, we complete visa forms (required of U.S. passport holders), go through inspection and proceed through the terminal into Aqaba, the port city at the southernmost point of Jordan on the Red Sea.
Rami, our local guide and driver for the next 3 days, is waiting for us in Aqaba. Recommended by Memories Aicha, Rami had communicated with us in advance via WhatsApp, so we were well prepared for the border crossing experience.
Crossing into Jordan
Ride to Camp
Other Commuters
First Look
Our Tent
Bubble Suite
Arrival in Wadi Rum
After a one-hour drive from Aqaba, we arrive in the Wadi Rum village—the entrance to the desert. The only “commercial” space for miles, the village has a few coffee shops and cafes, populated by men. We can’t help but notice the number of young boys playing, working or going to and from school… but no girls.
At the end of the village, Rami drops us at a small hut, the transfer spot for visitors to Memories Aicha. We load our bags into the back of a pick-up truck equipped with upholstered benches, and we’re off on a bouncy ride across the baren desert. “See you tomorrow morning!” Rami shouts as we speed off into the dunes.
Welcome to Memories Aicha
The camp is everything we imagined and more. Set among towering rock faces lies a community of 55 tents and domed bubble suites assembled artistically across the red sand, connected by a winding plank boardwalk. It’s hard to describe the feeling of walking along the boardwalk, surrounded by the most breathtaking mountain and desert landscape you can imagine. The air is cool, the wind is kicking up, and the surrounding mountains are cast in golden amber light.
Our tent is luxe: a comfortable king bed, an elaborate chaise lounge, tiled bathroom, and ornate décor with colorful drapery, carved wood furniture, lots of tufted cushions and fancy chandeliers. My only regret? Not booking earlier—we missed out on one of the domed suites. I can only imagine what it’s like to stargaze through a glass ceiling!
The assortment of amenities is surprising, especially for a camp in the desert. The skin and hair care products from the Dead Sea are nice, but our favorites by far are the Bedouin coats. These heavy sheepskin lined leather garment as used as bathrobes, coats, you name it… and worn by everyone, everywhere. Never have I worn a bathrobe to dinner, but here? It seems normal, and totally necessary in the cool evenings!
Dinner in a Dome
On our first night, we enjoy a buffet dinner of local cuisine served in the huge domed dining tent, the restaurant where we’d have our breakfast and dinners during our stay. Neil tries the Zarb, a traditional Bedouin dish. Meats and vegetables are marinated and slow cooked in an underground pit filled with coal and covered with sand. He loves it. I help myself to every interesting vegetarian option I can find – and there are plenty! Hummus, marinated vegetables, breads, salads, cheeses and a wide assortment of mini desserts. While the buffet is bountiful and the choices are well displayed, overall the dinner is good – not great – but good.
We have plans to meet Rami early the next morning for our journey to Petra, so head back to our tent to turn in for the night.
The next morning, we return to the dining tent for breakfast and find another generous spread. This one offers an abundant variety of fruits, pastries, cheeses, meats, breads and an omelet station. We leave satisfied and ready for our next adventure.
Click here for Part 2: Petra on horseback, a Bedouin tea break, and an unforgettable view
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